Strawberry Hill in Twickenham, Surrey, the first Neo-Gothic building, is the product of Horace Walpole‘s imagination. Built from a pair of small cottages then developed over 40 years, it is a fantasy drawn on his deep knowledge and love of history and art.
I had visited the exhibition “Horace Walpole & Strawberry Hill” at the V&A back in 2010 when the house was restored. I therefore had some idea of what to expect but confess to being underwhelmed at the start. This was a slow-burn experience: the first few rooms are almost bare with little remaining of their original appearance as most of the treasures were sold off in the famous auction of 1842.
We were given a set route which took us up the staircase to the library where I began to warm up. It’s the most obviously Gothic room in the house with bookcase and chimney designs taken from various cathedrals and feels as if he’s really getting into his stride.
I was surprised to learn that Walpole, the youngest son of the first Prime Minister Sir Robert Walpole, was the also author of the first Gothic novel, The Castle of Otranto. (Lots of first in this post). Jane Austen satirised it in Northanger Abbey.
The staircase is lovely with trompe-l’oeil wallpaper, filigree banisters and heraldic creatures.
The Holbein Chamber is named for the collection of Holbein drawings (reproductions on display). The originals are in the Royal Collection.
Look at this portrait of Thomas More.
The Gallery is gloriously exuberant with its mirrored alcoves and ornate Papier-mâché ceiling. It is what most people associate with Strawberry Hill
More next week in Part 2.