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Unravel: The Power & Politics of Textiles in Art at the Barbican Gallery

03/06/2024

Unravel. Barbican. Photo by Caroline Banks. PIN IT
Bandaged Grid #9 by Harmony Hammond. 2020

Coming from a background in Mixed Media (textiles), I’m always interested to see how fibre and fabric are used in the expression of ideas.

Viewed by the predominantly male Fine Art world as “craft” and historically gendered as female (i.e. of lesser importance) by scholars, textiles as fine art has had to fight against much discrimination.

This exhibition, Unravel: the power and politics of textiles in art at the Barbican Gallery, showed the work of 50 international artists.

Bandaged Grid #9 is deeply unsettling: using the language of abstraction the piece references wounds and blood, the remnants of some traumatic incident.

Unravel. Barbican. Photo by Caroline Banks. PIN IT

As Sheila Hicks states, “you can’t go anywhere in the world without touching fibre”.

In Family Treasures, she asked friends and family to donate their most cherished item of clothing which she then wrapped in yarn. These bundles remind us of what we hold dear.

Unravel. Barbican. Photo by Caroline Banks. PIN IT
Family Treasures by Sheila Hicks. 1993

Textiles are at the core of our existence: we are wrapped in it at birth, clothed during our lives and wrapped again in death.

T.Vinoja experienced first-hand the war in Sri Lanka. This piece is an aerial memory map of events and places.

Unravel. Barbican. Photo by Caroline Banks. PIN IT
The Day by T. Vinoja. 2021 (front)

The reverse is important to look at too.

Unravel. Barbican. Photo by Caroline Banks. PIN IT
The Day by T. Vinoja. 2021 (back)

Louise Bourgeois is famous for her use of fabric – see one of my previous posts about her work.

Unravel. Barbican. Photo by Caroline Banks. PIN IT
Arch of Hysteria. Louise Bourgeois. 2000

Several artists had removed their work from the gallery in protest to the Barbican’s cancellation of a London Review of Books lecture by Pankaj Mishra about the ongoing genocide in Gaza and the creeping normalisation of censorship across art institutions. Much as I agree with their views, I found Yee I Lann‘s response more powerful than a simple omission.

Unravel. Barbican. Photo by Caroline Banks. PIN IT

Their statement on the table in front of the installation explained why. I hope you are able to read it.

Statement by Yee I-Lann. Unravel. Barbican. PIN IT

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