This show, Dirty Looks: Desire & Decay in Fashion, currently on at The Barbican, covers many aspects of contemporary fashion’s fascination with desire and dirt, historically known as la nostalgie de la boue.
The dresses above were buried with iron filings, letting chemical reactions do their work, before being exhumed and are from the early career of Hussein Chalayan.
Couture designer Robert Wun transforms the hazards of accidental stains and moth damage into extremely glamourous outfits. Here is the Wine Stain Gown, Fear, gorgeously dyed and embroidered.
The White Moth, Time, has cut and appliqued feathered moths decorating a felt and tulle dress.
While part of Viktor & Rolf‘s outfit, Hyères, is actually disintegrating.
This ceramic and wire waistcoat by Maison Margiela from 1989 encapsulates the designers’ aim to subvert expectations of fashion.
